Peaking in the Picos: 17-24.05.2008

While waiting with anticipation of the next magnum opus from David re his walk last Wednesday, I thought it would be not too inappropriate to publish some 'holiday snaps' from our recent hiking trip in the Picos de Europa. One reason was that it is wonderful walking country after the relatively minor undulations of the Algarve, and second it may whet some enthusiasm for an AWW International Walking trip at a similar time next year if there is enough interest and committment.

The National Park Information Centre.

A good place to start would be the National Parque de los Picos de Europa information centre situated in Potes. From the outside this is an architectural curiosity, but inside is a beautifully laid out series of rooms and exhibitions which tell you everything and more. A Park Ranger meets you at the door and gives a comprehensive brief (in Spanish) on the geological and geophysical layout of the Park, and will advise on the best and most interesting routes and walks within your capabilities.

Luis and the Park Ranger discuss routes.

We were on this expedition with a group of Portuguese walkers, members of Caminhos e Veredas and led by Luis Alves, a prolific ultra long distance walker who has not only circumnavigated and diagonally-crossed Portugal on foot, but also done most of the perimeter of Iberia. We met him several years ago when we accompanied him on his Algarve leg of the route round Portugal. He has an encyclopaedic knowledge of the footpaths in Portugal, and has regularly led expeditions of his club members in the Picos.

Traditional Team Photo
Luis, 'Çao, Lurdes, Carlos, Jorge, Myriam, Paul

We were only 7 on this trip, a comfortable number, and happily on this day, we could all fit in the Toyota Landcruiser, that we booked to take us on a spectacular cross country drive from our base at Espinama to Posada de Valdeon for the start of a walk along the beautiful Cares Gorge. If we hadn't taken this off-roader, which is specially licensed by the Park Authority, we would have had to do a circuitous route of about 100km rather than the shorter but infinitely more exciting paths across the mountains.

The start of the Cares Gorge

Further along the Gorge

The weather turned after halfway - it is raining heavily here.

We entered the gorge in beautiful sunlight, although it did not reach to the depths, but the views were truly spectacular. However, halfway the mountain weather took over and we had a storm and some heavy rain. Out came the wet-weather gear, and I managed to snap this odd-looking troll on the path!!

Green Goddess!!

On another day, Luis announced that we were 'going to buy some cheese'. He omitted to mention that the village where the cheese factory was, Treviso, was almost 900 vertical metres above the start point Urdon in the Desfiladero de Hermida, which is another spectacular gorge.

The routes are marked and described.

We had a very good day for this walk, and on the way up, whenever we stopped for a breather - which was often, the views were wonderful. The path looked extremely precarious from a distance, but was not too bad if you had a good head for heights.

On and Up!

Looking back 'from whence we came!

We even saw a Polar Bear....

One little bird (and one fat buzzard) sitting on a wall!!

While in England, my daughter Tanya had thoughtfully sent me a new gadget - a Gorilla Pod (search Amazon) which in effect allows you to set your camera on almost any uneven surface or tree branch, fence, whatever and take a timer photo. For this one the camera was propped on a cliff face. It really is one of the most useful gadgets one can have!
Also, during the trip, she presented me with a first grandson on May 24th in Shanghai, which was cue for a celebration with a decent Rioja.

Luis and Paul on the final run in to Tresviso.

Until about 20 years ago, this precipitous path was the ONLY way in to the village of Tresviso. However now a road reaches it from the back, and it is in process of being smartened up for tourism. There is a nice little bar/cafe there , and a taxi service can be booked for those that weaken. We were not allowed to and descended the 900 metres, Myriam's knees protesting, and my thighs joining in the chorus!
For those avid statisticians among you, the figures for this walk were:-
Total Distance 14 km; Moving Time 3 hrs 20 min; Total time 7 hrs 42 min. Moving Average 4.2 km/hr; Overall Average 1.8 km/hr Total Ascent 905 metres.

On other days, we took the cable car to the top of Fuente De, and walked a circuit round and back to Espinama, but were in cloud at the top and didn't see too much for about 10 km.

The easy way up - and down!

We had a splendid week overall, although as usual the weather was very variable in the mountains. Our Hostal was already at 900 metres. The only downside was the food. We were on half board so ate the bulk of our meals in the restaurant attached to the Hostal. It could do with a visit from Gordon Ramsey!! The upside was that my starving frame consumed the fat that I had built from all the pies, pasties and curries I had enjoyed in UK, and I arrived back in the Algarve at a similar poundage to when I left back in March, - another first!!
I was elated that our altitude training, rigorous diet! and buns of steel would stand us in good stead to rejoin the AWW at an unprecedented level of fitness, but alas we were unable to join David's walk on the 28th, and will have to enjoy it vicariously when the blog arrives.

If anyone would like to spend a week in the Picos next May, please express an interest to me as soon as you can, and we can start to organise something.


"People have a natural tendency to flee to the mountains when things get tough."
Briscoe, Stuart